Sianora Japan - I`ll Miss You

Forgotten Favourite from Kyoto: Sanjusangendo was absolutely mind-boggling....Sanjusan means 33 in Japanese, and that is how many alcoves there are between structural posts for the building. This building is home to 1001 statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Compassion. Try to imagine 1000 life-size forms of this goddess surrounding one very large central statue of the goddess....Many pieces of the puzzle came together here, as we learned about two gods that are often on either side of the entranceways to temples. They are the thunder and wind gods, and they are everywhere in Kyoto!

Sumiya Pleasure House: We found it, we found it! After much searching and a fleeting consoling thought of, `Well, I won`t be too disappointed if we can`t find it,` we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the main level of this sizable residence. Sadly, the second floor is only open at certain times of the day and we would miss our train back to Tokyo if we stayed for it.....The main floor was grand, with a large open kitchen (complete with under-floor rice storage, love it), beautiful screen paintings, woven wooden ceilings, and gardens nestled within....It was very easy to imagine the good times shared in this restaurant cum social hub in the 17th century. From the ink drawings, it looks like they thoroughly enjoyed life in any season (even having snowball fights in the winter). Many haiku poets, artists, and thinkers spent time here.....sounds like a splendid place for dreamers ;)

Ramen Heaven Part Deux: We found an entire floor at the Kyoto train station dedicated to none other than ramen.....There are 7 restaurants on the 10th floor (for anyone who is heading that way). We tried Sumire and it did not disappoint! Mmmgh! The miso based broth was mildly spicy with lots of different flavours, mixed in with moments of zing when you got a bit of freshly ground ginger. It was just what we needed before hopping on the shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Well, only a few more hours and then we`re heading to uncharted territories for me and Kerwood--something that elicits feelings of nervousness and excitement, and the nervousness is more of a curious butterfly-in-the-stomach sensation....Philippines here we come !! :)

December 9 - 12, 2008

Kyoto: After having an absolutely wonderful sleep at our friend`s place (no more love hotels) after getting back from Hiroshima, we ventured out to Kyoto--the number one tourist destination within Japan.....When we arrived in Kyoto, we had a most wonderful Italian lunch for an astounding 900 yen (so cheap!), then moved on to get our bearings in this fine city. Well, Kerwood managed to get his bearings; I have been intolerably turned around and lost the entire time we`ve been here--a strange feeling for me.

We found the kabuki theatre near the river and tried to find out if we could attend one act of the performance, however we couldn't decipher the signs at all....We enjoyed delicious sashimi in a cozy restaurant in Pontocho Alley, which is very traditional in appearance (narrow walking street with lanterns outside of every restaurant and every restaurant has an elegant entrance way).

We have done so much sightseeing here, there is too much to write about. One of the more unique experiences was witnessing a bat (yes, a bat) being stooped by a falcon at dusk one night. That same night, on our search for a place to eat dinner, we walked by a placed called Tits Cafe....Ker and I were giggling so much, I couldn't even take a picture of it. Compared with some of the seedy `pleasure quarters` we have witnessed here, the Tits Cafe was actually a bright, modern cafe despite it`s misleading name ;)

Favourite Spots: Ryoanji Temple in the Rinzai Zen school--home to a mystery dry landscape garden that was absolutely stunning....15 large rocks surrounded by the combed stones that you imagine when someone says `Japanese rock garden`.

Ginkakuji Temple (aka Silver Pavilion)--the grounds for this place were aesthetically astounding. There were stone formations (dry landscape gardens), ponds, and amazing moss-covered hills....Luckily for us, there was an impressive stone pathway through the forest--a wonderful way to spend time and also soak in the peacefulness of the place.

Interesting Sightseeing Experience: Almost like sightseeing at night is getting into Nijo Castle right before dusk and trying to see the elaborate screen paintings when there is no electricity inside! We managed to get through the castle before it was completely dark, and it was truly a beautiful experience.

Today`s Plan: Try to find Sumiya Pleasure House.....we tried to find this National Cultural Asset two days ago, however it is nowhere to be found on any maps. I suppose it is too lurid and smutty for the whole family, so it`s a well-kept secret? Wish us luck :)

November 30 - December 8, 2008

Well, things went smoothly with our move-out and we are happy backpackers now....Unfortunately, any future blogs will not have pictures because I have no way to get pictures from my camera to the computer, so sad.

Sianora Party: The day we left our apartment for the last time, we found lockers for our backpacks at Tokyo Station (at absolutely the worst time to try to find empty ones--Sunday afternoon!), then headed to Shibuya to hang out until meeting up with friends for a sianora party of sorts....We had a fantastic time at an izakaya place and then moved on to karaoke. We seem to be forming a pattern of spending our last nights in Tokyo at karaoke places--a fine tradition, I must say ;) Much fun was had singing our hearts out and I am so grateful that we were able to visit with some of the people we trained with one more time before leaving--they are a wonderful bunch of people.....

Hakone-bound: The next morning, we headed to Hakone a little worse for wear....and let me tell you, it is very hard to travel with a slight hangover on little sleep (we had found a cheap love hotel the night before, and no, we didn`t lose sleep for the reasons you`re thinking of--naughty mind;). I was rudely awakened at around 4 in the morning by the `white noise` music they pipe into every room to block out other sounds....which is a great idea, but it makes it sooo hard to sleep. Oh well. I made a mental note to be better prepared next time (and there would be a next time because love hotels are so affordable!).

When we arrived at The Prince Hotel in Hakone, we sunk into absolute relaxation. Wow, this place was amazing. The hotel was at the end of a road, surrounded by lush forests and Lake Ashi. It was peaceful and very quiet. We took a nap and then started exploring. The hotel complex was immense and there were several walking paths. This was the perfect place to replenish our depleted energy stores and get ready to return to the Hakone Open Air Museum.

The day we decided to go to the museum was a crystal-clear, pristine day. We walked into town to catch the pirate boat ferry (couldn`t resist another ride on it) on a lake-side stone path....it was gorgeous. We walked by the torii in the lake and had stunning views of Fuji-san along the way. When we got to town, many people were gathering along the lakeshore, or parking along the lake, to sit and gaze at the majestic peak of Fuji-san....and it really is breathtaking. You can`t help but get caught up in the excitement and honour of setting eyes on it, particularly because it is quite rare to have such unobstructed views of it.

We can officially say now that we have seen the entire Open Air Museum and it definitely takes a couple of days to do it! One of the best parts of it was a foot bath, with fresh hot spring water to soak your weary feet in....65 degrees hot, whew! There are magical, healing properties to the water....after a 10 minute soak, our feet felt phenomenal and ready to go--any aches or pains were gone.

Hiroshima: After spending a night at Hotel La Michelle (yes, there is a love hotel with that name), we headed to Hiroshima by shinkansen (4 hours). FYI, my preparations to stay at another love hotel, and be able to sleep in one, proved fruitless.....even with earplugs the `white noise` is terrible to try to sleep while it`s playing. Anyhow, we were able to catch up on sleep on the train.

Hiroshima has been absolutely amazing. Our first full day consisted of walking to the Peace Memorial Park and Museum. It is truly a beautiful city, with two wide rivers and several gorgeous bridges. Interspersed with the physical beauty are several reminders of the horrible atrocity that occurred during World War II--most evident of which is the Atomic Bomb Dome, a building that remained standing after the blast, and one which will be preserved forever as a reminder of the horrible effects of atomic warfare. The museum was very difficult to walk through--many moments of experiencing tears welling up and feelings of immense sadness, anger, and repulsion at what happened. Part of the reaction is shock/disbelief that something this horrible could actually have happened, which is all the more reason for people to go to this museum and/or the one in Nagasaki.....to never forget.

What is more disturbing is that since the bomb was dropped, the mayor of Hiroshima writes a letter of protest to governments every time an atomic bomb is `tested.` As of October 2006, 593 such telegrams have been written by the mayors of Hiroshima....593!!! The elements that put me over the edge were seeing the story of Sadako Sasaki and some of the cranes she folded, along with the drawings and stories by survivors....Sadako`s story had an immense impact on me when I was a child and it felt both strange and powerful to be here to read about the real details of what she experienced....

Ker and I welcomed the time to walk through the park afterwards, to have time to talk about what we had seen and read, and basically to connect with and appreciate our blessings together....until we were approached by two very sweet women, who seemingly wanted to practice English with us, which was great. We thoroughly enjoyed our conversation with them until one woman asked us if we believed world peace was possible, asked us to read a passage from the Bible, and gave us some Watchtower literature.....It kind of seemed inappropriate to be spreading the word in this way, at this place....

As we were walking past the Hiroshima Carp baseball diamond, we stopped to take a picture in front of a huge billboard, promoting an all-star game happening the day we were there.....to commemorate the beloved home team over the past 3 decades and to have one last game at this park. A new stadium is being opened next year. As I was posing for the photo, a woman walked by with her son, and gave us two tickets to the game--how generous! Ker and I had a heck of a time trying to find our seats, and the guy who took our tickets chuckled because we were coming in so late.....Once we found our spot, however, we thoroughly enjoyed watching the final two innings of the game (yes, we did arrive a bit late;). The crowd was loving the wild antics of the players and the good-hearted fun that was being had.....Ker and I walked out of there a little bewildered at our good fortune to have been able to participate in this moment. We were even given a small vial of dirt from the diamond as a keepsake.

So many great memories from this place, and so little time to write about it. It`s time to leave our hotel and head on to Kyoto....

November 24 - 26, 2008

Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum:
Okay, hands down, this is the coolest place we've been to. Or, it might possibly be my favourite place since ramen is my favouritest food in the whole world!! To think, they have an entire living museum dedicated to this beautiful, beautiful soup ;) I know, I'm getting a bit melodramatic....

I am not alone here....There are approximately 200,000 ramen shops in Japan and there are regional differences in the style of the dish across the country. There are 4 components to ramen: noodles (curly, not curly, soft, firm, long), sauce (salt, soy sauce, miso), broth (pork based or fish based), and toppings.

We even prepared for this trip by watching Tampopo again--a great film about a woman who endeavours to have the best ramen shop in her town.....We were at the museum on a holiday Monday, so it was super busy. The line-ups were quite enjoyable and provided us with time to read up on the next shop. Oh, there are 8 noodle shops from all over Japan in the museum--they were selected because of their popularity and distinct combination of ingredients. And, each of them offered mini bowls of ramen, to better enable us to try as many kinds as possible. We planned to have lunch and dinner there, which turned out to be a wise plan.

Our first bowl was from a shop based in Sapporo, and it was delicious....it actually kind of ruined it for the rest of our culinary adventures because this one was near perfection! Our second bowl was not that great, and then we walked around Shin Yokohama to burn it off and get ready for dinner....We stopped off for a coffee and then hung out in Kirin City for the rest of the afternoon (it was pouring out and we could only stand it for so long).....

Our third stop was a shop based out of Hakata in Kyushu. This was, by far, my favourite ramen of the day. Quoting from my critiques that day (I know, I'm a geek about this), "Rich broth, yet simple. Only pork and spring onions on top of straight, thin, firm noodles. The least oily broth--super drinkable." I will dream of this soup in the days to come, I know it. Unfortunately, we didn't stop there. We tried one more, and it was not that great. We were able to figure out why we didn't like 2 out of the 4 bowls we tried--and it all comes down to the broth. Neither Kerwood nor I liked the fish based broth. Now we are the wiser, we can try to avoid this at all costs! Pork and miso all the way :)

Okay, one last thing about this museum. It takes up two levels, all below grade, and it has been designed to look like the old streets of Tokyo (like in the 40's or 50's).....There were lots of families at the museum and the kids seemed to be having a hoot! Oh, in the souvenir shop, I also came to know my hero comic character.....neko ramen (Ramen Cat--perfect, isn't it?). There are comics, a TV show, and a new DVD coming out. I'm looking forward to trying to find the TV series, which have been translated into English....Anyhow, enough about food!

Let's move on to something more classy, shall we?


Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum: This museum is actually housed in Prince Asaka's former residence. As a result of World War II, many members of Japanese royalty had to renounce their titles and become regular citizens--which is what happened with Prince Asaka's family. The house makes for an opulent museum, however, and we were thrilled to see the Tokyo in the 1930's and the Birth of Prince Asaka's Art Deco Residence exhibit there.
http://www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp/info/e_index.html

The photo above is a view of the house from the back yard. Photos were not allowed in the house, a tragedy to be sure, so it's best to check out the website to see some of the stunning details in this house (e.g., the glasswork in the front entrance--it glows amber and the women's dresses are three dimensional, the custom designed grates to cover the fireplaces, the custom designed light fixtures, a stunning light column at the top of the grand staircase, the circular study/den with glass display cases that opens onto a formal library, complete with a rolling ladder). Can you tell I love this era of design? It was so worth the trip even though we were in the middle of packing.....

Mori Art Museum: This museum is on the 53rd Floor of the Mori building. We started off with the Chalo! India: A New Era of Indian Art exhibit, which just opened a few days ago.
http://www.mori.art.museum/eng/index.html

We were taken aback at the sheer size of the show. We came to a few points in the exhibit thinking that we must be entering into the last 'phase', and no, there were a few more to go through. It was fabulous! I loved one of the first pieces, which was a hand grabbing and twisting the wall (and this was all 3D). Actually, the entire first room was phenomenal--a different artist created a huge spiral with bindis and also made a life size fiberglass elephant.....the skin of the elephant was also done with bindis, however each of the bindis was painted over to create the head of a sperm and then a tail was extended from it. The entire skin of the elephant was done in this way--it must have taken forever!

Oh, later on, there was an interactive piece wherein you walked into a room and you were back lit, creating a shadow on a screen on the opposite wall. Once you were recognized in the room, objects would start coming down the screen and attaching to your shadow form. It was actually a bit disconcerting to have these shadow objects stuck to you and you couldn't do anything to get them off....There was also an amazing installation piece with wire mesh and airplanes in various formations--created anew for each exhibit that it travels to....

So many great pieces and not enough space or vocabulary to describe them all. Chalo! means "Let's Go!" and the show definitely highlighted the beautiful aspects of India, as well as the struggles that are being faced.

Sky Deck:
After exploring Chalo!, we went to the roof of the building.....open air observatory like you've never seen before. It was spectacular! It was 270 m above sea level (about half the elevation of Mt. Takao ;). You can see Tokyo Tower in the picture to the left and you can see Shinjuku district in the photo on the right....You can also see Shinjuku Goen, Yoyogi Park and a sizable cemetery in the foreground.

Inside, you can go around the 'Sky Walk'....as soon as we entered, our noses were overwhelmed with the sweet fragrance of lilies. We didn't know where it was coming from until we rounded the bend and came upon this tree! The entire tree is dappled with lilies (apologies for the bad lighting--I didn't want to use my flash on this one)....Elegant, classic, and it smelled scrumptious!

Izakaya & Karaoke Grand Finale: Well, this will be my last post. Thank you to everyone who has been reading my stories....I will try to post as we continue to travel through the Philippines, Thailand, and Kauai, however I'm not sure what the internet access will be like.

We're having a sianora gathering on Sunday, our last official night in Tokyo. We're going for izakaya, drinks, and then going for karaoke (a fantastic way to end our time here)! Actually, I think I'm going to be doing back-up dancing, since I can't sing at all! I'm not sure which is worse, though, my singing or my dancing. Oh well, everyone will be too drunk to even notice ;)

November 21 - 23, 2008

Travel Clinic: Thankfully our only experience with the health care system here will be related to travel vaccinations. Not because the care here is something to complain about--far from it! It's just very, very expensive to have to pay for everything out of pocket. We are definitely longing for Canada's medicare system....We went to the Tokyo Midtown Medical Centre, which happens to be affiliated with John Hopkins in the States--so, you have some idea of the status of this place. We went there because they have English-speaking doctors, something that definitely hinders our ability to access services easily here. We were very impressed with our care at this clinic and felt well looked after.....Our doctor provided us with updated information about travelling to the Philippines and Thailand and informed us that we would only need anti-malarials for our time in the Philippines (thank goodness--these pills are not cheap).

What was interesting, however, was how transparent the process was. The doctor was very careful to point out that our vaccinations and anti-malarial pills were not manufactured in Japan and could, therefore, not be guaranteed by the clinic. They provided us with very detailed information about who the manufacturer was and asked us to sign a release form absolving them of any responsibility if there were any adverse reactions to the vaccinations. All very fascinating--I guess the Japanese legal system does not provide any protection for people who utilize imported medications.

So, we're all set. We've received our shots and have our anti-malarials ready. I wish I had taken pictures of this clinic--it was gorgeous inside.....coved ceiling above a 'grove' of bamboo plants. The back wall was covered in a slate gray, textured wall paper. The lamp shades were paper or fabric and had been shaped like conch shells. There was bench seating and large square 'stools'. There were also individual seats that you squeezed into and then felt very secure because the armrests curved inward.....The doors to the examination rooms were hydraulically controlled, so they closed silently. And, of course, they had several Noguchi coffee tables.

Suntory Museum of Art: One the main reasons that I loved my job here was meeting my students and hearing their recommendations for what to do, both in Tokyo and around Japan. With one of my students, we somehow got onto the topic of art, and he became very animated. He firmly recommended that I see the Picasso show at the Suntory Museum (rather than the exhibit at the National Art Center, Tokyo) and also provided me with the name of a modern Japanese artist that he thought I might like (Taro Okamoto--more on him later).

So, as soon as an opportunity arose to check out one of the Picasso shows, we made our way to Picasso: Portrait of Soul at the Suntory Museum. We were there on a Friday afternoon, and boy, was it busy. We were able to enjoy the atmosphere and revel in being with some of his original works.....thinking back on it, however, it did feel a bit rushed. I particularly enjoyed one of his paintings of a man's head done in his cubism era, his paintings depicting an internal struggle where he is a minotaur, and his pencil drawings. I was definitely more interested in him as a person after seeing this exhibit, and learning of his torrid love life....I'm not quite sure how he had the energy to create his art and manage his personal life (and it sounded like he needed exquisitely nuanced management skills)....I also became far more interested in the women in his life--perhaps one day I can learn more about their perspective on what happened.

One woman stood out from the rest.....because she held the status of being the only one to leave Picasso. In all, the exhibit highlighted five women who played pivotal roles in Picasso's life, and I want to know more about 'em!

Meiji Jingu:

On a true Saturday (since we're not working anymore), we planned to go to Yoyogi Park and hopefully catch some of the people who dress up as greasers and dance to old tunes.....we got a little lost and ended up at Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken. The forest covers a space of 700,000 square meters and the main torii is immense. As we walked through one of the entrances to the forest, I realized that I had been here as a teenager, during my first visit to Japan. It was a wonderful feeling to recognize the familiarity of the place and soak in the peacefulness of it.

We witnessed a wedding procession into one of the main halls, were absolutely awed by the food offerings made to the Emperor and Empress, and were all smiles at seeing so many boys and girls in traditional outfits (there must have been some kind of festival for kids happening that day?)....Here's one picture of proud parents with their daughter.

Yoyogi Park:


We did, eventually, find our way to Yoyogi Park....after asking a security guard at one of the entrances to Meiji Jingu, on our way out.....He wearily pointed us to the opposite side of the shrine--which was where we just came from.....Oh well, it was a beautiful day to walk in the woods of this shrine. We made our way to Yoyogi Park and it was overflowing with people engaged in all sorts of activities. We saw two people playing the guitar and singing together, a guy practicing the sax in a valley below our trail, people playing badminton, frisbee, skip rope (adults :) and leap frog (also adults :)....Lots of people had their dogs out, oh, and some people were practicing dance moves (solo, facing a statue), sword play, and martial arts. We weren't able to find any greasers, though, so I think we went on the wrong day.....next time!

Akihabara:

A 'must' on our list of places to see before we leave was Akihabara--the electronics/geek district of the city. This is where you can see cosplay people (men and women, more so, dressed up as game/anime characters), buy cosplay outfits, and purchase electronic gadgets.....not entirely our scene. And, unfortunately, we went too late in the day to see anyone in their outfits. We did, however, spot this shop that has several cosplay outfits on display....so, you can use your imagination and picture all sorts of kawaii Japanese girls dressed up in these 'dresses.'

Ginza:




Well, I have since learned that Ginza is the oldest shopping district in Tokyo, and that is why it holds a special position here....(it is also an elite, high-end boutique area as I described it previously). The building with the clock tower is very old and very glamorous. It somehow survived World War II, as it was definitely around in the late 20's/early 30's.....

The other photo is of Kabuki-za....a theatre for kabuki performances (the art of singing and dancing) that was built in 1889. It was destroyed in a fire in 1921, then again during World War II air raids....It is slated for demolition in 2010, to once again be rebuilt--this time with improved earthquake readiness and greater accessibility for audience members. I guess a lot of tourists will only purchase tickets for one act, which sounds like a good idea, because the performance is typically 3 to 4 hours long. That is a long show to watch without understanding the language. Although, some of my students commented on how an older form of Japanese is used in the performances, so even they are unable to understand what is being sung.

Ginza has their Christmas lights up already--it's an interesting phenomenon here. Christmas isn't really celebrated in Japanese culture, however the 'business' side of things is in full swing....It does lead to some very beautiful displays, like the one on the left. Rose petals were used to create a yin/yang shape in the circle, out of which emerged globes of roses of varying heights. It easily could have been something gaudy--it was, undoubtedly, tastefully done to an artful end. Even I, who cringe at ultra-feminine things, was won over by this one.....

Shabu Shabu in Shibuya: To top off this evening, we met up with friends for a delightful meal. Definitely try shabu shabu if you have the chance. It is delectable--it is another interactive form of eating (just like okonomiyaki), so it is quite fun. Essentially, there are pots of broth in front of you. You add vegetables and/or thinly sliced pork or beef and allow it to cook through. Mmmgh. It soaks up the flavour of the broth and then you dip it in a sauce--it's fantastic and super easy to over-eat, so be warned :)

November 17 - 20, 2008

Last Day of Work: This proved to be a day of mixed emotions--it was terribly difficult to say goodbye to my co-workers, I will miss many of them. It also felt like a fantastic release--and a sense that choosing to walk away from chaos can lead to a deep level of peace/freedom....even if that meant walking away from some really positive experiences.

I was finished several hours before Ker was, so I met up with him and some of his co-workers at the end of their day to go for drinks.....at the Rose & Crown (is there a Rose & Crown everywhere?). We enjoyed very cheap finger foods and it was super nice to meet some of the people whom Kerwood had been telling me about for the past two months. A very nice bunch (2 from England, 2 from the States, and one from Belgium) with a great sense of humour! It was a nice way to mark the end our working days in Tokyo.....

Jiyugaoka & Denenchofu: The next day, we were off to explore a new neighbourhood of Tokyo. We started off in Jiyugaoka, an area with high-end boutiques and a cute shopping street that is closed off to cars. It's different from places like Ginza or Shinjuku, however, because the buildings are only 3 to 4 stories high and it feels more residential (kind of like Kensington in Calgary or Whyte Ave. in Edmonton)....In essence, very comfortable. Most of us needed a caffeine boost, so we stopped at a VW bus that had been retrofitted to be able to serve the best coffee we've had here....It was splendid! From here, we wandered through an underpass that had a huge mural of tree/earth women who had big hair and looked like they were ready to disco. There were also wonderful historical photos to see what the district was like in the early part of the 20th century.

After this, we came upon a bike storage unit like you have never seen before!













Yes, you are seeing this correctly. It is all underground and completely automated. We hung around long enough (unintentionally, of course) to witness someone actually retrieving their bike--it was incredibly fast! You simply swipe a card, wait 2, maybe 3 seconds, and voila! Your bike is rolling out backwards from the magic door. We need some of these in Canada :)

After this, we went to Denenchofu, where our friends live. Wow, it's stunning there. Super quiet and many magazine-worthy homes in this neighbourhood. It is also home to a Sanrio store that is in a building shaped like a strawberry.....For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Hello Kitty franchise (I was until I arrived here, that's for sure), Sanrio is the company that sells Hello Kitty products.....and there are a lot of 'em! They did have an interesting item--coffee/end tables in the shape of Hello Kitty's head--can't say I've ever seen that before.....

Improv Night: We were starting to have withdrawal symptoms from the Pink Cow, so we went to eat dinner from their menu (Ker had a veggie burger, I had a mushroom stroganoff--very good) and then enjoy their free improv night. It was definitely entertaining and some strange coincidences occurred. We arrived fairly early, and sat down next to a woman who was knitting/crocheting a hat for a friend. We got to chatting.....lo and behold, she is a psychologist (in my mind, I'm like, "Whoa....what are the odds of that happening?" -- e.g., running into another psychologist here). Then, I discover that she is from Canada, and not just any part of Canada, but BC....As we talk some more, she relates that her friend was in Tokyo that week visiting from BC.....from Vernon, where we are planning to move when we get back to Canada (and where my dad grew up)!?! A few moments later, her friend walks in and we talk about our shared familiar place of Vernon.....One of those bizarre, yet welcome, small world moments.

Takao:


Mt. Takao is a highly popular destination because it is one of the sacred mountains in Japan....and it is very close to Tokyo. As you can see in the photo above, we were able to go at the perfect time. The colours were nothing less than stunning....and there's something about Japanese maples, the leaves are so dainty that they create a light veil of colour around you. And, in just the right light, they positively glow amber and red.

At about the halfway point, we came upon a monkey park, and couldn't resist entering. I, in my impulsive manner, misread the ticket machine and ordered two children's tickets.....much to Ker's mild irritation (and rightly so, I need to take a step back in those moments;). It was easily remedied and the woman who took our tickets was very good humoured about it all....

We were absolutely enraptured by these little guys. There were many baby monkeys and we arrived just in time for their feeding. At one point, one of the large monkeys jumped on the keeper's back and took a ride for a little bit! It was hilarious. We also witnessed a baby get freaked out as he was trying to climb a sizable rock on his own--he froze--and then mom came to the rescue, hooked him under her belly, and took him to safety. There was also the tense moment of watching while a big male monkey chased an adolescent one all over the enclosure--if the adolescent was caught, it was not going to be pretty! Since we were only part-way up the mountain, we pulled ourselves away to keep moving.

When we reached the top, we were treated to a fantastic panoramic view of the mountain range, including Fuji-san. In the picture to the right, Mt. Fuji is on the left side, a bit muted by the haze....Although it was a bright, sunny day, it was quite chilly out, especially when you weren't moving. We loved being out of the city for the day and breathing in fresh air! Our spirits definitely appreciated the peacefulness of our walk down the mountain. We were able to get onto a 'rugged' path on the way down, and for most of it, we were the only people on it.....a rarity here, for sure!

November 10 - 16, 2008

Shinjuku Goen: This is a massive park in the midst of one of the busiest business districts in Tokyo. There is an entrance fee (only ~$2), and once you get inside, you understand why. There are several different types of garden within this park...There is a French inspired boulevard with benches lining one side, along with a rose garden that smells divine (and that's no exaggeration!)....There is also a traditional Japanese garden (of course), a mother-and-child forest (we never quite figured out why it was named this), a traditional English park, and (something that we happened upon) a chrysanthemum festival.

We saw 'trees' of chrysanthemums (the traditional imperial style of presenting them), some of which had 500 - 700 blooms on display. We also saw cascades to mimic the flowers as they would be seen growing down a mountainside. There were the 'plate' mums that needed saucer-shaped paper to support the blooms....they were that big!?! There were the mums that looked like big, mighty brains. And, there were the mum explosions, as seen above, that were more dainty and were historically tended to by samurais to learn the principles of dedication and patience. How cool is that?

We were also able to wander down paths that were buried in fallen leaves--it was so nice to hear them scrunch and crinkle under our feet--and so hard to resist forming a monstrous pile of them and jumping right in ;). This was one of the few spots in the park that hadn't been meticulously wiped clean of any leaves--the 'leaf zamboni' hadn't been through yet. This was one of the funnier scenes we've witnessed here. There was a truck, completely dwarfed by the sheer immensity of the trees in this park, that went up and down the lawn 'vacuuming' up fallen leaves. This was the secret to the leafless lawns in the English garden, we concluded....And something also so very Japanese. The relationship with nature here is very, shall we say, controlled.....

Mandala Live House: That evening, we attended our first 'live house' performance. From the promotional materials, the band was billed as playing a fusion of Japanese taiko drums, guitar and bass guitar--a combination of rock, Latin, and traditional Japanese drumming. We loved the atmosphere of this live house, which is fairly well-known and prestigious here. The food was also tasty....the music, however, was a little disappointing. The band only played rock tunes and left out the Latin and drumming influences. Oh well, you can't have everything. They have great potential, though, considering this was their first live show together.

Kagurazaka: On our 'Sunday' this week, we took the opportunity to visit a neighbourhood recommended to me by one of my co-workers. What a fabulous place this was! It was the first (and probably only) place that we emerged from the subway to exclaim, "This doesn't feel like Tokyo at all!" There weren't any high rises to block the view of the sky, the streets felt wider, and it felt like a small town rather than a city within a city. This area of Tokyo also has a strong francophone population so there were several French cafes and bakeries. Many of the French restaurants were a bit pricey for us, however we came across a cute cafe just in the nick of time.....we arrived only 30 minutes before they closed for the afternoon (restaurants here open for lunch 11-2 and then re-open for dinner 5-close).

The cafe, Saint Martin, was off the main road, so it felt like a great find after much searching....We thoroughly enjoyed having the poisson du jour and poulet 'something-something' frites with some wine while watching people wander by outside. It was quite a challenge for me to dredge up French from schooldays long gone, however it eventually came back to me (after much sifting through of the Spanish, English and Japanese that kept popping up!).

Now that it is full-on fall here, and central heating does not exist in Japan, it is very, very, very chilly in our apartment! As evidenced in the photo here, I have a fleece throw blanket around my shoulders and I am cocooned in our blankets in an attempt to stay warm.....Brrrr! It's the damp cold that you would expect in a coastal city, however the lack of central heating is very unfortunate. I can now see why the Warmlet is well-loved here--the thought of getting out of a warm bed to sit on a freezing toilet seat is nothing less than teeth-chattering cruelty!

November 3 - 9, 2008

Enoshima Part II: It just so happened that on one of our 'long weekends,' Enoshima Island was hosting a candle festival at the base of the lighthouse. We decided to make a full day trip out of it and were so glad that we did. We enjoyed lunch on the balcony of a restaurant that had a cantilevered patio....we had a spectacular view of the ocean and the many hawks (tombi) as they flew around. There were so many sailboats on the water--the billowing white sails looked quite elegant on the deep blue water.

This picture above is the Dragon Bell of Love--something that we didn't have time to get to on our first visit. It's too bad we weren't aware of the tradition before coming, otherwise Ker and I could have brought a lock and written our names on it.....As you can see, it looks like quite a popular date destination.

After a thoroughly relaxing lunch, we wandered down the beach and spent the afternoon watching surfers and people galavanting about the beach. It was very easy to spend a few hours doing this--plunk us down in a place where there is good people-watching and we're set ;) At one point in the afternoon, it looked like a group of young adults were making a movie next to us. Wish I could understand Japanese--it would have been good eavesdropping! As soon as dusk started to set in, we made our way back to the island. The lighthouse was so beautiful with changing coloured lights that illuminate the glass frame. Come to think of it, it looks too fragile to be a lighthouse--good thing it has a large island around it, so it doesn't have too much exposure to the harsh elements!

When we managed to find the candle festival, we were blown away. It was breathtaking to see thousands of candles set out on the pathways through the garden at the base of the lighthouse. There were glass candle holders that were cream, purple, and red along the pathways, in addition to cream-only candle holders in the forested areas.....Magical is one word to describe it. Leaving no detail overlooked, the organizers also had jazz and instrumental music playing over speakers placed strategically around the garden. Wow, an unforgettable once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Pink Cow II: Later that week, we decided to venture back to the Pink Cow and take in their monthly jam session. Again, we were absolutely blown away by the talent that was present that night. The music was from all kinds of genres, from rock to folk to bossa nova to classic glam rock to a fascinating combination of folk/dance music....Two musicians really stood out for me. As David, the host and one of the regular performers put it, Ben Kemp has a sublime voice--he's also a playful storyteller and has fantastic energy in live shows. Check out his website when you have the chance--http://benkemp.co.nz/. The second performer who rocked the house was Sorcha--her lyrics were great and the mixture of guitar, keyboards, and dance tracks was superb! Check out her website--http://www.sorchamusic.com/. Kiss of the Spider Woman is particularly humourous ;)

October 27 - November 2, 2008

On Kiran's last night in Tokyo, we went to Asakusa to see the Kannon temple and the pagoda to the left. Have I mentioned how wonderful this city is at night? I love sightseeing at night here--less crowds, the lights are gorgeous, and different things stand out than they would during the day.



We had a leisurely morning before hopping the train so that Kiran could catch her NEX to Narita. We hung out at Heiwanomori Park and sat by the water. We were all quite enraptured by the creatures that lived beneath the surface. Someone had dropped an entire piece of bread into the pond and there was something attacking it from beneath!! From the way the bread was pulled beneath the surface and then released, it seemed like it was a sizable creature. Kerwood investigated and discovered that it was only a fish approximately 6 inches long. Oh well, it's nice to have 'big fish' stories swimming around your mind every now and then (except when I'm swimming in the ocean a month from now!) ;)


Sadly, it was time to say farewell to Kiran. We had such a fun time sightseeing with her....and we were also very grateful to have been able to share (with someone from home) all of the places that we have come to love here!

That evening, Ker and I went to a Spanish restaurant in Kichijoji (the neighbourhood where I worked)....We had a splendid time eating (delicious tapas and the most wonderful seafood paella) and drinking while feasting our senses on a live flamenco show. This seems to be a common thread through many of my stories--great food, good drink, live performances--I have to say, we're livin' a sweet life here and getting re-connected to the things that are most important to us....Even though our time here has been cut short, what time we have had has most certainly been a gift, and I am most certainly grateful for that....

October 20 - 26, 2008

Sunshine City Elevator: Oooo, aaaa. I'm so glad we got a picture of the inside of this one. This was the underwater scene, for the ride down. We were too slow on the way up to get a picture of the astronomy scene, complete with zodiac signs (the ride is only 34 seconds long, so it's understandable that we missed the boat)!

Following a relaxing evening watching the sunset from the observatory and eating dinner at a tapas restaurant, we spent some time at Ueno Park. The city lights on the water were absolutely beautiful and we enjoyed the peacefulness of an evening walk....This is definitely a city that takes on a new life at night--fuelled by neon lights, live houses, host clubs and karaoke spots, of course. Parks are one space, however, that are able to maintain a quiet demeanour....and, after a certain hour, the parks belong to the 'blue tarp' people, Tokyo's fairly invisible homeless population.

On our 'weekend' with Kiran, we took two day-trips. The first was to Kamakura (most famous for Daibutsu, a huge bronze buddha), and on the way we stopped in Enoshima. Enoshima is the sweetest seaside town we've ever been to. You can tell immediately that it is a surfer's mecca and there is an island that is home to several fascinating spots. The picture above is the torii at the entrance to the island. From here, you walk up a hill to a shrine and then there are all sorts of paths around the island. The island also has a very modern lighthouse, fishing spots galore, and a cave system that has several ancient deity statues. The caves were quite the experience. At the mouth of one of the openings, we were each given candles to light our way down the paths....It was very difficult to see and some of the stone was covered in plexiglass so the candlelight was reflected in a haunting way.

On our second day, we went to Hakone, a well known area for hot springs (onsen) and panoramic mountain views. Using a Hakone 'free pass,' you are able to utilize various forms of transportation (e.g., a bus, old-fashioned trains, a cable car, a gondola, or a pirate ship). On the way to the pirate ship, we spent some time at the Hakone Open Air Museum (a must see!!!!):


The picture to the left portrays only a small segment of the grounds that are utilized for the museum. They also have 3-4 indoor exhibits-- it's huge!








We happened to be at the museum on my sister's birthday, so we toasted to her longevity and good fortune while eating a scrumptious buffet lunch overlooking the museum grounds....Sigh, what a life :)


Then, it was off to the pirate ship part of the trip--yar!! The boats were quite hilarious, actually. They kind of looked like the Ocean Motion ride from Calaway Park for anyone who is familiar with that wonderful landmark near Calgary ;) It was a bit chilly on the water, however the views were spectacular. We came upon this torii just before we docked and the red absolutely popped!


My work weeks were quite nice, really. I always started ~4:45 PM on my 'Mondays,' which meant that Kiran and I could spend the day exploring Inokashira Park. We enjoyed a tasty lunch at a Thai restaurant right in the park and then I made a weak attempt at a self-portrait of the two of us with the pond/lake behind us. The leaves were just starting to turn at this point.....

October 15 - 19, 2008

Kiran’s Arrival: We were so excited to meet our first (and as it turns out, our only) visitor at the airport. She arrived in fantastic spirits and appeared to have more energy than I remembered having the two times I’ve arrived in Tokyo in the past year…Kerwood and I were absolutely giddy on the train ride to the airport and enjoyed wandering around the airport with the anticipation that only comes when you’re awaiting someone’s arrival. On the way back into Tokyo, Kiran excitedly talked about all of the things she wanted to see/try while she was here….We put some good home-cooked food in our bellies when we got home, visited for a bit, and then had an early night to bed.

Kiran adapted super quickly to things here and started exploring this city on her own right away. This was fantastic because Ker and I had to work while Kiran was here. It set our minds at ease knowing that 1) this city is so safe for women and 2) Kiran could handle the train system. Oh, and 3) Kiran is very outgoing and quite a gutsy traveller (I can learn a lot from her on this front, as I don’t have a lot of experience travelling solo).

It brought much joy to Ker and me to hear Kiran’s excitement at re-telling her day’s adventures while we were at work….Our first night out all together was to a buffet at a funky, bohemian restaurant/café/lounge/gathering place in Shibuya, called….

The Pink Cow: We have really come to love the Pink Cow—it’s a place that takes community-building seriously and provides a safe space for artists, musicians, comedy improv-ers, people of varying gender/sexual identities, filmmakers, knitters, and the list goes on and on. And, the reason for our first official visit to the Cow was to indulge in the weekly buffet that happens on Fridays and Saturdays. Our taste buds were definitely celebrating and we were sad that we didn’t have more room in our stomachs. There was a lovely medley of flavours, ingredients, and vegetarian options. As we were eating, we learned that the chef previously worked at the Institute of Directors and the Savoy in London. He also cooked for Queen Elizabeth II…twice! No wonder it was so delicious ☺ If you have the chance, please check this place out! (Oh, the furry friend next to Kiran is Spot).

The Drought Is Over

'Short and Sweet' Update: As many of you have already heard, our plans are changing pretty significantly in the near future. I don't want to get into details on this blog, because this was/is intended to be a forum for the wonderful, exciting, and surprising experiences I've had in Tokyo. Our reason for moving fits none of these categories. The end result of what has happened, however, does perfectly. Kerwood and I are currently no longer working (a pre-emptive statement: our jobs were not the reason for us leaving) and are taking this opportunity to do some more sightseeing around Tokyo before we leave our apartment on the 30th. After we leave our apartment, we will be travelling around Japan to spend time in Hakone, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, and Hiroshima.

Following this, we will be travelling to the Phillipines, Thailand, and Kauai for a total of four months....We are definitely looking forward to many hours of snorkelling, reading, building sandcastles, and doing some sightseeing as well (of course!). We're also looking forward to returning to Canada in the spring and being able to see friends and family. It's hard living so far away!

So, the dust has settled and I'm ready to tell some more stories of the fabulous things we've been experiencing over the past month. To start, though, I've got a hodge-podge of things....

Since I described what I witnessed on the train one day (see my blog entry on September 26, 2008), I have been privy to some more information. I guess the reason girls/women use this 'tool' is to create a double-eyelid, not to make the eyes look wider as I had hypothesized....The example to the left is quite a friendly looking one compared to the one I saw on the train!

I apologize in advance for the blurry picture....I hurriedly snapped a picture of this in the store before someone saw me. I felt strangely self-conscious about gathering photo-evidence of this intriguing 'beautifying' product.

Bossa Nova Festival Follow-Up: One of the festival concerts we attended was held in a Lexus Showroom (in fact, you can just barely catch a glimpse of the red car in one of the photos)....Just yesterday, I learned that the car is not even on the market. It is the Lexus LF-A, which has been displayed at various motor shows. If it is produced and sold, it will be a limited run with a reasonable price tag of ~$200,000.....Just in case you were wondering or interested in the roadster ;).

Hilarious Advertising: I had to include this billboard ad from Shibuya Station. It was starin' us in the face as we were waiting on the platform. I mean, how can you not giggle at the marketing slogan ? 'Love-jewelry'? Does that sell?


And now, ladies and gentlemen, I need to write about cats....because I miss mine so much and the street cats in Tokyo just are not friendly. There is no way that I can get my cat fix unless I pay money to visit them in Ikebukuro (and that would just put me in the 'crazy cat lady' category).....I refuse.

A lovely photo-op that Kerwood captured as he was walking around our neighbourhood one morning. Isn't it so sweet? It's even sweeter that these two cats still have their tails....most cats have bent or stub tails here.


This picture was taken just as we were leaving Ueno Park one night. This little gaffer pounced in front of my feet (just after I finished lamenting about how much I missed my cat) and I couldn't resist a little cuddle with him. He was quite pleased with the arrangement as well--he settled right in to my hand and started purring away. It was hard to leave him to live the rough life of a stray cat here....

The other photo was taken in Hakone as we were waiting to board a pirate ship....No, I'm not making that up and that's a story for another entry. There was a group of cats who hung around the dock. They were very friendly with one of the ship's captains, however they would not let me get too close to them. As you can see, though, I was trying my best. Hmmm. Having written this entry, and after looking at the pictures, I think I might fit into the 'crazy cat lady' category after all...and, I'm okay with it. It's kind of been a part of who I am for as long as I can remember (and it runs in my family ;)....

13 Oct 2008 - Salon & Musica

Leap of Faith Haircut: Curiously, all of the employees at the salon I found online were men (in fact, it has been surprising to me to notice that many salons have more male hairstylists than female). Although there were some jitters about going to a new salon with a new hairstylist, and not being sure that we would be able to communicate, this turned out to be my best salon experience to date. To begin with, I enjoyed the most vigorous hairwashing ever. The nice fellow who washed my hair started by placing a light cloth over my face. He made sure that the water was the right temperature and then he went to task. He was scrubbing my head with such umph that my whole body was moving in the chair (which was very cushy). There was also a brief neck massage to release tension and a very good towel wrap before I went back to the stylist’s chair.

My hairstylist was quite the character. He looked like a 'rocker-rock' from the late 80’s or early 90’s. He was very friendly, quick to give travel recommendations, and he 'worked' my curls. He was also very efficient, which I loved. I was done in an hour—something that hasn’t happened for me in years…..The price was also very affordable and the salon is in an area of Tokyo that is becoming one of my favourites, Roppongi.

The Glories of Roppongi:
After leaving the salon, Kerwood gave me a 'shortlist' walking tour of the area. He directed me past the immense Chinese embassy with several guards outside. A little beyond this was a beautiful park. Many of the trails were rough stones and dirt, so it felt very old. We couldn't resist sneaking this photo of a fellow reading next to a stream/waterfall. It looked so peaceful.
Kerwood then took me to an open-air theatre next to the Asahi TV building. This is the area of Tokyo that will be hosting the Tokyo International Film Festival shortly. The pond of water had gorgeous pink lotus blossoms with a curving path through a traditional park area. And, of course, you can see the very famous Mori building from here.....
.....there is an exquisite museum in the Mori building and Kerwood has been graced with the good fortune to teach in an elite law office on the 38th floor! Stunning views, to be sure (only special people are allowed access to this part of the building;).

'Maman': A fascinating (and only slightly creepy) sculpture at the base of the Mori building. What can't be seen in this photo are the white capsules in the body of the spider--clearly indicating that this spider is expecting. From Roppongi, we made our way to Aoyama to search out a music festival....

Bossa Nova Festival: After bumbling our way through Aoyama, Ker and I were treated to a most fantastic free music festival. (A nice sidebar to initially getting lost is that we found an old, important-looking building that we need to go back and see again, as well as a stunning promenade). Part of the bumbling was due to the fact that we had a map that was completely in Japanese. When we found a stage, I stiltingly asked which venue it was (because the schedule was also only in Japanese). The stage-hands were very helpful in pointing out the obvious (as Ker and I went to the front of the venue, there was a table set up with volunteers and a huge sign that was colour-coded to match the map we had—oh well, it was fun to try to get information from the backstage volunteers).


The first show that we saw was being held in a Lexus showroom. People were squeezed into the most unfathomable spots in the room because we had to leave space around the hot red car in the centre (Ker says it was one of their roadsters—looked fast and fun to drive!). We saw Silvio Anastacio (guitar) and Gustavo Anacleto (saxophone) perform. They were playful with their music and had great energy. It was a little bit difficult to get the crowd involved, however there was a handful of people who were really getting down.

As soon as that show was done, we moved to an open-air venue and listened to Marquinhos Lopes play the guitar. How can one person create so much rhythm in their music?!? It was a beautiful fall afternoon to savour an outdoor concert. We felt so lucky to have been able to find it and to be in Tokyo where something is happening all the time. And did I mention the best part--that it was all free :)?